GE Choice Alert Wireless Alarm System Window/Door Sensor

GE Choice Alert Wireless Alarm Method Window/Door Sensor

  • Provides a layer of safety for any door or window within or outside
  • Easy to set up and use – no wiring
  • Progressive two-piece magnetic device alerts you when a window or door is opened
  • Operates up to 150 feet away from the Selection Alert Wireless Management Center
  • Tough, weather resistant layout
  • Gives a layer of protection for any door or window inside or outdoors
  • Simple to set up and use – no wiring
  • Revolutionary two-piece magnetic device alerts you when a window or door is opened
  • Operates up to 150 feet away from the Decision Alert Wireless Manage Center
  • Resilient, climate resistant design and style

The weather-resistant GE Selection Alert Wireless Alarm Method Window/Door Sensor gives a layer of protection for any door or window inside or outside your house, like gates, cabinets, refrigerators, sheds and more. The two-piece magnetic layout is easy to set up and calls for no wiring. The sensor transmits a wireless alert to the Decision Alert Wireless Management Center anytime a door or window is opened or closed. An extra bonus, the sensor is powered by a single lithium battery that offers

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GE Choice Alert Wireless Alarm Program Window/Door Sensor

3 Responses to GE Choice Alert Wireless Alarm System Window/Door Sensor

  1. P. S. Ross says:
    134 of 137 people found the following review helpful
    4.0 out of 5 stars
    Good – But understand the limitations, December 21, 2009
    P. S. Ross (USA) –

    I bought this GE Home Security starter kit and several of the add ons to put in a security system to help protect our home. I’ve been fairly pleased, but there are a couple of issues to be aware of. In order to give my review a bit of structure, I’ll attempt to break it down by component…including a couple of components that ARE NOT included in this basic kit, but that you may need to purchase to get the system to work, or elect to purchase to expand the system.

    1. The conroller. The controler is small, easy to program and makes heck of a racket when the alarm system is triggered. My only slight complaint with the conroller is it does not include any provision to be wall mounted and it has limited range (more on that under “door/window sensor below”. Turning the system on or off from the control pad is very easy. Each of first 3 zones can handle up to 4 sensors, allowing you to say, put all 4-exterior doors on Zone 1, and windows on zones 2 and 3. To do this, obviously you have to get more hardware than comes with the basic kit reviewed here.

    2. Door/Window sensor. The advantage of the wireless door/window sensor is the ease of installation. A wired system would require many hours of running wires from each sensor to the controller to function. This is not practical in many instances. The wireless sensors are easy to place using a couple of screws to mount the contact plate and some double sided tape to mount the sensors themselves. Programming the controller to recognize the sensor is also easily accomplished. However, be aware that the sensors have limited range…in some cases VERY limited range. In my installation, 2 sensors located near the front of the house would not communicate all the time with the control box. Another reviewer talked about how his control box will flash, reporting a low battery in a sensor, when in fact the battery isn’t low. Well…the reason the controller is flashing is because it is not getting a good signal from the sensor. It cannot differentiate between a low battery and a poor signal. So, it will flash repeatedly and the documentation says that means “low battery” but it can also mean the sensor is too far from the controller. In my situation, my 2 sensors were only about 40-feet from the controller and I had this issue…so beware when GE sasy “up to 150 feet”. If you have an issue, you will need one or more “range extenders” which are not included in the basic kit. However, I had to buy one so I reviewed it below.

    My other issue with the sensor is how hard it is to take them apart to change the battery (at least once every 2-years per GE). The tabs on the side would seem to indicate a screwdriver can be used to take them apart, but they are too flimsy to do that. The only way I was able to get mine apart was to use a razor knife as a prying tool (kind of dangerous) to get the case apart and get to the battery. I see no way to replace the batteries without removing the sensors from the door frame…and they are secured with double sided tape, not screws…so that’s going to be an issue in the future. GE needs to redesign the catches that hold the sensor body together. The ones I had apart, I shaved the tabs down to make them easier to get back apart later.

    3. Range Extender – This deal plugs into an unused wall socket (tying it up forever) and will simply “repeat” any signals it recieves from sensors around it, hopefully communicating all the way back to the controller, so that sensors that can’t otherwise function reliably will now begin working properly. It works, in a fashion, but be aware that the Range Extender itself still has a very short range. In my case, I was able to find a spot to plug it in half way between the front of the house and the controller that was close enough to the sensors to work and close enough to the controller to work… seemed to need to be within 15 feet of the sensors and 25 feet of the controller. I have NO IDEA if you can chain one range extender after another.

    4. Window Decals and Yard Sign. I read up on this and most “experts” say that putting in decals and a yard sign are your biggest deterents to simple home break ins. None of what I’m talking about here is going to keep a determined thief from stealing your Monet, but maybe it will keep the doper kids down the block from targeting your house for meyhem if they need some money to buy more dope. I went with an extra pack of sticky stickers and put one on most of my windows and all of my doors. The yard sign? It is so flimsy it broke trying to take it out of the package. If I was GE, I’d be ashamed to have my name on it. It’s a flimsy piece of plastic junk. I taped mine together with some clear tape and then couldn’t get the plastic stake to drive into the yard, as it is so cheap and flimsy. Get the picture?

    5. Other Sensors available. A motion detector and a water…

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  2. Carolina Yankee says:
    56 of 59 people found the following review helpful
    3.0 out of 5 stars
    Great for a low budget system., November 27, 2010
    Carolina Yankee (Goldsboro, NC) –

    As my title says, the system is great for the price. But the biggest reason I gave it only 3 stars is because of one really stupid design flaw that could have easily been avoided with one simple mute switch.

    As others have mentioned, the problem is while the system is giving the 45 second delay after a sensor has been triggered to give you time to disable it, it gives off very loud beeps with no option to mute it or at least turn it down. The problem here is obvious. If the intruder has any determination at all, all he has to do is follow the beeping sounds to your system and smash it to bits before the alarm goes off. Yes, I know he can still do that after the alarm goes off, but most intruders are going to take off when suddenly and unexpectantly a very loud alarm goes off. I understand that many people like an audible reminder that their alarm has been triggered so that they will remember to turn it off. But how hard would it have been to give me the option to turn the beeps off? I would rather take my chances on maybe occasionally forgetting that I have my alarm system on and letting the alarm go off, than directing an intruder straight to my system so he can disable it.

    Here’s how I worked around that problem. I located the base unit in my storage room in my garage locked up behind a door that swings out.(can’t easily be kicked in) Also convenient for when we drive up into the garage, we simply go into the storage room to disarm it without triggering the system and then have to beat the clock. In this location, if the intruder is in the house he won’t hear the beeps. If he breaks into the garage, he can hear them but he still won’t be able to get to it. At least not in 45 seconds, if at all. You might be thinking, what good is the alarm siren if it’s muffled out in your storage room? To get around that, I added 3 separate alarm sirens. One mounted high on a wall where it is not easy to get to in the main part of my house. The other two in the attic facing directly out the gable vents. Now I have plenty of indoors and outside siren coverage. A big added benefit to adding a separate siren is once the alarm goes off but a very persistent intruder still destroys the base unit, the separate siren(s) will continue to go off independently from the base unit. If you locate them where he can’t get to them as I did, he won’t be able to shut them up. Even if he is able to pull the power cord, it has battery back-up. You can add as many as you want to maximize coverage area and/or loudness. I had to wear ear muffs while testing mine.

    Now for another common complaint and somewhat of a work around. The motion sensors only work in the “Away” mode. Their logic behind this is when you have it in “Home” mode you can walk around your alarm coverage area without setting off the alarm, while all other sensors (doors, windows, etc) will still instantly set off the alarm. Again, why not have a simple “Ignore motion sensors” option switch, so that otherwise, the motion sensors will also instantly set off the alarm like all the other sensors. The only work around I came up with for this problem will only work as an alert and not a full alarm. Simply put the system into “Test” mode then put the switch on the side to off (lights only), chime, or alert (multiple beeps depending on zone triggered). Set up like this the motion sensors will work like all the others. Two points to remember when in test mode and depending on motion sensors for instant alerts. One, the system will automatically cancel out of test mode and return to normal operation after 5 hours, so if you want to keep it set up that way you have to remember to keep putting it back into test mode within every 5 hours. Two, also remember that once a motion sensor detects movement, it has to see NO movement for about 20 seconds to reset itself to be ready to detect again. In other words, for example, if someone walks by and triggers it, then 15 seconds later someone else walks by, the second person will not be detected. Or if there’s continuous movement like tree limbs moving in the wind, it won’t be able to reset itself. It has to have that 20 second “no movement” time period to reset itself. This issue doesn’t matter for triggering a full alarm because once it senses that first time, the 45 second countdown is on.

    One other thing concerning the motion sensors that someone else wrote about that I also experienced, suggesting that it must be a common problem. The battery connector, specifically the positive side, wasn’t making a good connection, causing the sensor to intermittently work or not at all. To check for this and fix it, connect just the positive side to see if it feels lose. If it is, disconnect and then carefully bend the sides of the connector in so that it will then snap on tighter.

    The other common complaint that I will back up is the 150 ft. range claim. Even though that may technically be true in a…

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  3. G. Todd says:
    44 of 46 people found the following review helpful
    5.0 out of 5 stars
    I “Hacked” the Control Center- here’s how you can too…, February 20, 2010
    G. Todd (Illinois) –

    I just got done installing the Choice Alert system in our 1600 square foot split foyer. The components include the control center, one signal booster, one extra siren module, 3 door/ 3 window sensors, one garage door sensor, one signal repeater, and one motion sensor. Obviously, I don’t yet have much experience with its performance, but I thought I’d share some installation thoughts.
    Certainly the biggest problem is- what keeps an intruder from just unplugging/ taking the batteries out/ or just smashing the control center? The warning beeps in the “away” mode are obvious enough and give the intruder enough time to home in on the sound. My “Hack”? I just opened the Control Center and snipped the wires to the beeper/ siren. It works just fine like that, and it is totally silent until the siren module goes off. The upside of doing this is obvious, the downsides are- 1. You don’t get the short beep when a door or window is opened when it is not armed (although I actually think that’s a plus). 2. You don’t get the warning beeps when you come home- if you forget, it will go off. 3. You have to buy a siren module. 4. I suspect GE would void the warranty. 5. You could mess up and snip the wrong wires.
    If you decide to try it, here’s what I did. I took the 3 screws on the back plus one in the battery compartment out. At that point I still could not completely open it up- the right side would not release. I pried the back open about an inch on the left side and examined it with a flashlight. After being pretty sure I had the right wires (2 brown ones that disappear into the beeper module) I snipped them with a pair of scissors. I then tested it and I got exactly what I wanted- total silence until the alarm sounds. I installed the siren module on top of our kitchen cabinet and ran the wire from the plug outlet used for our over-the-range microwave (my wife’s idea). It is completely out of view.
    All of the sensor modules seem to work as advertised. The most difficult part of the installation is getting the two sensor parts properly aligned on the doors. It would be nice if GE would include some shims to raise the small part off of the door, but the don’t so I had to cut some pieces of wood.
    All in all, I think the hacked system is a reasonable value for the money- the sensors seem to work well and the siren would certainly scare someone off. The non-hacked version has such a big problem with it giving the intruder 45 seconds to disarm it I would be hard pressed to recommend it.


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